Bond Wardrobe Review 21: Casino Royale 2006

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• His final casual look of the film revives the black shawl-collar cardigan, this time pairing it with a white V-neck t-shirt and khaki chinos.
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It has an appropriately modern look for Bond compared to the traditional tan raincoat. Craig’s muscular body in Casino Royale—the most extreme body of the Bond series—is difficult to tailor, both in getting the shape of the clothes to follow the body and in making it look elegant. I think that Hemming and Brioni did a good job at achieving a balance, though I think the shoulders and width of the trouser legs could have been attenuated.

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It’s a shame that Turnbull & Asser only made the evening shirt, which is significantly more successful than the Brioni shirts. The three-piece navy track stripe suit for the film’s final scene is a wonderful choice for showing Bond’s maturity at the end of the film. It demonstrates that Bond has become the familiar, fully formed character after the events of this film. It also shows that he no longer wears suits ‘with such disdain’, as Vesper tells him earlier in the film. A three-piece suit is for someone who appreciates his suits, but this character growth would unfortunately be set back in the next Bond film.

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Each characters at the table has a distinct sartorial personalities in their clothes, no matter how minor the role. Le Chiffre is the bad guy because he’s wearing a black shirt and a sumptuous velvet dinner jacket. The attention to detail in every costume around the table contributes to the significance of the casino scenes and to the glamour needed in a Bond film.

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His final casual look of the film revives the black shawl-collar cardigan, this time pairing it with a white V-neck t-shirt and khaki chinos. He needs a better shirt, especially to lead us into the final suit of the film. For the film’s climax, Bond wears a mid-blue rugby shirt from Massimo Dutti over a grey t-shirt and navy chinos. The rugby shirt is a superb choice, but the t-shirt is superfluous and detracts from the look tremendously. He’s not on a mission, so he should be wearing more stylish shoes like the suede chukka boots he previously wore in the film. There were much nicer suede trainers available if this was the look he was going to have.

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• Though he has just been through a lot, it looks like Le Chiffre completely destroyed Bond’s manhood when he’s dressed in these clothes.

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He wears a blue Brioni shirt with grey chalk stripes, another unusual shirt for Bond. The navy-and-white checkerboard tie, however, is a beautiful choice that has an appropriate look for Bond. It’s a brilliant choice to complement the ribbed silk jacket facings with a different kind of textured silk. The shape is narrower than Brosnan’s bow ties, and it looks classic and flattering on Craig. Albert Thurston white moire braces complete the look, and they are appropriately on display when Bond undresses in his hotel room but not at the poker table. Despite all the changes in Casino Royale, the dinner jacket is still the look that defines James Bond.

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• This suit is ultimately the most successful one in the film, but it’s a shame it’s hardly visible.
• The topcoat is in a tweed-like barleycorn cloth and has a pleasantly dramatic look when a short jacket could have been equally appropriate.
• These trunks changed men’s swim fashions for the better, if only for practical reasons.
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• The suit is difficult to judge on Craig because he’s always moving and wears the jacket unbuttoned.
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Bond returns to his full self in black swim trunks with white stripes at the sides and a red stripe across the rear in a fit that rivals the blue trunks. These don’t have nearly as much prominence, but they are a superb choice again, especially to show that Bond is still in superb physical shape. The first two suit jackets have double vents, while the last three suits have single vents. It’s an odd choice to use single vents on the smarter suits, since double-vents are slightly smarter than single vents.

Short-sleeve shirts again are a poor style choice, but it’s a Fleming Bond detail so in that manner it can be excused. It portrays Bond as a novice suit wearer, which makes sense in the context of the story. He does not wear a tie, which is an effective choice with a casual linen suit. They’re a rare occurrence of Bond wearing brown shoes with a navy suit, but they work perfectly here.

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The topcoat is in a tweed-like barleycorn cloth and has a pleasantly dramatic look when a short jacket could have been equally appropriate. His stylish trousers are in a fine black and white check with an overlaid light blue check. Overall this is one of the best smart casual looks of the series by showing how to look sophisticated while dressing casually in the 21st century. The striped navy suit is a Bond classic, and it’s perfect to demonstrate maturity, but I think it’s out of place on Lake Como. Something sportier, like the checked suit he wears earlier in the film, would have been a more appropriate choice while still conveying the same maturity in a three-piece suit. The light blue poplin shirt is a classic Bond look too, and the blue-and-white honeycomb pattern tie subtly recalls Connery’s navy grenadine ties.

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